miercuri, 19 iunie 2013

ROLEX

 

 

ROLEX

It doesn't just tell time, it tells history.
Rolex and icons commercial - http://www.rolex.com/magazine/icons.html

In praise of the invisible

Hidden away in its waterproof case, the Perpetual movement remains invisible to the wearer of the watch. Only Rolex-certified watchmakers are able to access it with their special tools. Yet, when it has the honour of being seen, this exquisite mechanism known the world over for its chronometric performance can truly be admired for what it is:
a work of art, a magnificent miniature universe, a myriad of shapes, forms, volumes, colours and surfaces, some polished, some satin-finished, others circular-grained, always with loving care.

A COMMON ARCHITECTURE

Precision, robustness, reliability

The Perpetual movements that equip the Oyster models play an
integral part in the reputation for excellence of Rolex watches.
These mechanical self-winding movements, all rigorously certified
as chronometers by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), are entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex based
on a common architecture and characteristics that ensure high performance and adherence to the uncompromising requirements
of precision, reliability, shock-resistance, efficient self-winding and ease
of maintenance.

Balance wheel with variable inertia

Equipped with gold Microstella nuts, this balance wheel allows high-precision regulating and great stability.
Hairspring with Breguet Overcoil
The outermost coil of the hairspring, which is attached to the balance bridge, is curled towards the centre of gravity. This allows perfectly balanced and concentric (isochronous) oscillations of the balance wheel-hairspring mechanism and contributes to greater chronometric precision whatever the position of the watch.

High-frequency oscillation

A frequency of 28,800 beats per hour (8 per second) allows optimal conciliation of the oscillator’s precision and peerless reliability.
Traversing balance bridge
The traversing balance bridge allows stable and precise positioning of the oscillator in order to improve chronometric performance. The bridge’s rigidity greatly improves shock resistance. The Perpetual movements’ traversing bridge is height-adjustable to provide for optimal free movement of the balance wheel: a supreme refinement.

Self-winding via perpetual rotor

Invented by Rolex in 1931, this ingenious mechanism consists of a half-moon-shaped oscillating weight rotating freely in both directions on its axle under the impetus of the wearer’s wrist. It keeps the mainspring under continuous tension and thus provides the watch with a constant and stable source of energy.
High-performance lubricants
The quality of the lubricants is of prime importance for the proper functioning of a mechanical movement. Rolex has developed exclusive new lubricants, synthesised in-house, whose useful life and stability over time have been considerably improved.

Extremely fine finishing

Although the Perpetual movements are accessible only to Rolex-certified watchmakers using specific tools, they are decorated in the finest watchmaking tradition. The plates and gear trains are circular-grained, the bridges satin-finished, circular-grained or snailed, the screw heads are mirror-polished and all edges are bevelled.





COSC CERTIFICATION

COSC CERTIFICATION

A history of precision

The four simple words Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified engraved on the timepiece's dial mean that the movement of this watch
has endured 15 days and nights of testing by the COSC (Contrôle
Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), an independent not-for-profit association. To receive COSC certification, a watch must demonstrate extreme precision in a variety of positions and temperatures –
the standard level of quality for every Rolex Chronometer.
Chronometer vs chronograph
A “chronometer” is a high-precision watch, tested for 15 days and 15 nights in different positions and at varying temperatures, and whose performance has been certified by an independent official entity such
as COSC.
A chronograph is a watch equipped with an additional mechanism that makes it possible to measure short periods of time with start, stop
and reset functions. And a chronograph can also be certified as a “chronometer”, which is the case of the Cosmograph Daytona.
The red seal
In 1951, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH) decided to enhance the “chronometer” designation by reserving its use exclusively for timepieces having obtained (and no longer “having the capacity to obtain”) a certificate issued by one of the Swiss Official Watch Rating Centres. Abuse of the term was no longer possible. Rolex created a red seal to accompany each watch, with the inscription “Officially Certified Chronometer”.



OSCILLATOR

The guardian of time

In a mechanical watch, the oscillator is the guardian of time. Comprising a hairspring and a balance wheel, this regulating organ determines the precision of the watch by the regularity of its oscillations. Rolex deploys exceptional know-how and resources to master the design and production of this inseparable and strategic couple. Conventional oscillator hairsprings are made of ferromagnetic alloys, leaving them vulnerable to magnetic fields and shocks.
After five years of research, Rolex created the blue Parachrom hairspring. Crafted from a paramagnetic alloy, it is unaffected by magnetic fields and up to 10 times more resistant to shocks. Historically, the unique blue colour of the hairspring has been a sign of prestige reserved for only the most accurate timepieces. Today, it guarantees the accuracy of your Rolex.
Read more

PARAFLEX

Enhanced robustness and reliability

To increase the resistance of its movements to shocks - especially if the watch is dropped - Rolex developed and patented an exclusive and highly efficient shock absorber: Paraflex. First invented in the 1930s, anti-shock devices protect the delicate workings of a watch movement. But although perfected over the years, these tiny shock absorbers have their limits.
In an effort to optimise protection, Rolex engineers, working hand in hand with its watchmakers, developed a system that would increase the shock absorber’s resistance by 50 per cent while preserving the chronometric properties of the balance wheel. Following extensive shock testing and laboratory measurements, the Paraflex was introduced in 2005, and the new geometry of the shock absorber springs is now an exclusive signature of Rolex movements.
Read more

ESCAPEMENT

The key to time

Have you ever wondered why a mechanical watch goes “tick-tock”? The ticking is produced by the escapement, a strategic part that plays a key role in
the movement’s measurement of time.  “Tick”: a tooth of the escape wheel locks against one of the pallets. Then, released by the sweep of the oscillator, the pallet fork lets the wheel “escape”. The wheel continues to rotate and locks against the second pallet: “tock”.
The pallet fork is synchronised by the alternating movement of the oscillator. It continues its infinite pendular beat against the oblique teeth of the escape wheel precisely 28,800 times every hour – 14,400 “ticks” and 14,400 “tocks”. That's 250 million times
a year. We are at the very heart of the Rolex Perpetual movement, where its pace is distilled with chronometric precision.
Read more



THE ORIGIN<br/>OF THE PHRASE

THE ORIGIN
OF THE PHRASE

Did you know?

"Superlative chronometer officially certified"
Historically, a chronometer could be certified by its own manufacturer,
a process which obviously carried a risk of fraudulent abuse.
To guarantee the quality of its chronometers, Rolex made the choice
to have them officially certified, in spite of the costs and extra time required.
Today, everyone knows that 100 per cent of Oyster Perpetual watches are chronometers. That is what the phrase “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" attests to first and foremost.
This inscription can even be considered the symbol of the brand’s tireless pursuit of chronometric excellence.

2 comentarii: